Onome Amuge
African designers are stepping up their presence on international runways as the continent’s fast-growing fashion industry gains more visibility and recognition worldwide.
This year, the global Fashion Week calendar opened in Moscow in early September. The event exceeded expectations, drawing designers from 13 countries and signalling Moscow’s rising importance in the international fashion circuit.
Among the participants was David Tlale, the celebrated South African couturier. A regular on Russian runways, Tlale returned to Moscow to debut his latest collection, which he described as an authentic narrative of Africa told through fashion.
“Each collection narrates African stories in sophisticated yet powerful tones, connecting past traditions with modern fashion innovation,” Tlale said.
He explained that his 2025 showcase celebrates the modern working woman, considered confident, elegant and versatile. The designs, he said, were conceived to take her seamlessly from the office to high tea and through to an evening cocktail event, embodying what he called “refined sophistication in every setting.”
Tlale, already established on global stages, has previously shown his work at New York, Paris, Shanghai and Dubai Fashion Weeks. His choice of Moscow this season highlights the city’s growing role as a hub for emerging markets and cross-continental exchange.
The relationship is not one-way though, as Russian designers have also been seen building visibility in Africa. Solangel participated in Soweto Fashion Week in 2024, while Darya Kipriyanova presented her collection at Hub of Africa Fashion Week in 2025. Industry observers say the exchange illustrates strengthening cultural and commercial links between Russia and African fashion industries.
Running alongside Moscow Fashion Week was the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, which provided a forum for deeper collaboration. Delegations from South Africa, Egypt and Ethiopia attended as full BRICS members, alongside representatives from other African countries.
Prominent attendees included Mmantlha Sankoloba, chief executive of the Botswana Exporters and Manufacturers Association; Nana Tamakloe, chief executive of Accra Fashion Week in Ghana; Kalistu Ramos Mukoroli, director of MTC Windhoek Fashion Week in Namibia; and Brian James Kihindas, director of both the Kenya Fashion Council and Nairobi Fashion Week.
The summit allowed African leaders to exchange views with European, American and Russian counterparts on strengthening industry links, sharing expertise and developing partnerships.
“My expectations center around deepening global collaboration, especially between African fashion ecosystems and emerging markets. I’m particularly keen on exploring strategic partnerships that can lead to more inclusive and equitable fashion systems, where African creatives and artisans are not only celebrated but actively integrated into global value chains,” said Kihindas.
