Onome Amuge

Giorgio Armani, the Italian designer whose minimalist vision transformed global fashion and whose commercial discipline built a $12.1 billion fortune, has died at his home in Milan at the age of 91. The Armani Group confirmed his death on Thursday, hailing its founder as the tireless driving force of the company, who remained active until his final days. 

Armani’s passing marks the end of an era in Italian fashion. He was scheduled to headline Milan Fashion Week later this month with celebrations marking the 50th anniversary of his label.

The architect of modern elegance

From the late 1970s, Armani offered an alternative to the rigid formality that defined luxury fashion. His unstructured jackets, neutral colour palettes and fluid tailoring embodied a modern, understated sophistication that resonated across boardrooms and red carpets alike.

His designs reached a global audience through American Gigolo (1980), when Richard Gere appeared in Armani suits that epitomised contemporary cool. From then on, the brand became inseparable from Hollywood glamour. Michelle Pfeiffer, Leonardo DiCaprio, Cate Blanchett and Lady Gaga all wore his creations, while his tuxedos and gowns became a fixture of awards season.

He was widely credited with pioneering red carpet fashion as an industry of its own, cementing Milan’s position as a global fashion capital alongside Paris, New York and London.

A $12bn empire of style

Armani’s reputation as a designer was matched by his success as a businessman. By combining creative restraint with rigorous commercial discipline, he built one of the world’s largest privately held luxury empires.

At the time of his death, Forbes estimated his fortune at $12.1 billion, ranking him among the industry’s billionaire elite alongside Bernard Arnault of LVMH, François Pinault of Kering and Ralph Lauren.

The Armani brand today encompasses haute couture, ready-to-wear, accessories, fragrances, eyewear and home furnishings. Long before lifestyle branding became a cliché, Armani had moved into restaurants and hospitality, with more than 20 eateries and luxury hotels in Dubai and Milan. He also owned Olimpia Milano, one of Italy’s most storied basketball clubs, reflecting his lifelong passion for the sport.

Unlike rivals who sold to global conglomerates, Armani maintained control of his business. His disciplined expansion strategy, careful licensing and aversion to debt allowed him to keep the group independent, a rarity in an era of luxury consolidation.

From Piacenza to global powerhouse

Born in 1934 in Piacenza, northern Italy, Armani grew up the son of an accountant and a homemaker. Initially studying medicine at the University of Milan, he abandoned his degree during military service. A chance job as a window dresser at La Rinascente, the Milanese department store, introduced him to fashion.

By the mid-1960s, he was designing menswear at Cerruti, honing the relaxed tailoring that would become his hallmark. In 1975, with his partner Sergio Galeotti, Armani launched his own label. Backed by Italian manufacturers eager to promote homegrown talent, he found early success.

The 1980s saw an explosion of international demand. Licensing deals brought his eagle logo to perfumes, eyewear and sportswear, while the launch of Emporio Armani created a more affordable line for younger consumers. Within a decade, Armani had become one of the world’s most recognisable luxury brands.

Enduring influence

Beyond business and fashion, Armani remained engaged with cinema and culture, designing costumes for more than 100 films and supporting exhibitions at leading museums, including New York’s Museum of Modern Art. He was also an early advocate of sustainability, joining the Green Carpet Challenge in 2011 to promote environmentally conscious fashion.

Reserved and disciplined, Armani was known for eschewing flamboyance. While rivals such as Gianni Versace embraced excess, Armani’s philosophy rested on timeless elegance. “Indefatigable to the end, he worked until his final days,” his company said in tribute.